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.30 This kind of workis very tiresome to both man and beast, especially to the heavily-laden pack-mules which painfully pick their way through morassand fallen timber, the bell of the leader sounding meanwhile as sweetas an Angelus Chime.For one instant we halt: a thrill running through us.We are look-ing down upon Shoshonee Lake which from this particular point ofview presents an exquisite picture.The ubiquitous tourist has notyet ruffled its serenity by asinine comparisons with some other lake, in the Halps, you know , and it lies like a lost jewel of price in acasket of pine and fir-mantled mountain.It is formed principally, bythe engorgement of the Snake or Shoshonee river,31 flowing throughit, and has the respectable dimensions of 15 miles x 8 miles.We bivouacked on the banks of the Shoshonee River, in a pretty,level meadow, not much more than a mile from the Lake, and atthe edge of a thick forest.In this camp all was lovely except the29.Kepler Cascades.30.Isa Lake on the Continental Divide.Lee Whittlesey to Charles M.Robinson III,January 10, 2008.31. The Lewis River, which flows south to Snake River. Ibid. CARL SCHURZ AND YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 83mosquitoes which in myriads came to annoy man and beast. Smudges were built as soon as possible and in their smoke wesmiled defiance at the little pests.It was very ludicrous to watchour grizzled old pack-mules as with the air of veterans, they plod-ded up close to the fires and thrust heads and necks into the insectdispelling smoke.The scenery all day has been varied and sublime:I am no poet, but were I Caedmon my muse should find a grate-ful theme in singing the praises of God as he appears in his noblehandiwork of beetling precipice and impenetrable forest, of grassymead and trickling rill, gentle spring and maddened torrent.Hereman s impotence reveals itself and his awe-inspired soul bows downin humble reverence before his Lord and Maker.In cities, sophistry,cynicism, infidelity thrive; there rascality and intrigue too generallyare successful and the despondent mind may well doubt the exis-tence of an All-Wise and All-Good Master of the World.But in thesegrand mountain ranges, the human soul is brought face to face withits Creator, admires His Power, concedes His wisdom, and humblyhopes for His justice and mercy. The heavens declare the Glory ofGod, the firmament showeth His handiwork. 32Our march to-day has not been over 25 miles long, but it has beenacross such high ranges, (the main range of the Rockies) and thensuch rough country that everybody confesses to a sense of fatigue,especially Colonel Thornburgh who is much exhausted.But we haveno casualties to report which is better fortune than I was afraid weshould have to chronicle, considering all that we have been exposedto.Some of our horses have scalded their legs in the boiling streamswhich we had to cross, those ridden by Webb Hayes and myself be-ing the worst hurt, but none of them badly.Mr.Schurz, Mr.Gaulieur [sic], Webb Hayes, Mr.Hanna andseveral others of our party walked down to the shores of ShoshoneeLake, but were soon driven back in disorder by the swarms of angrymosquitoes which attacked them.Genl.Crook shot a deer, but did not secure him, the fallen timberpermitting the animal to escape.No better idea can be given of theimmensity of our Western domain than by making mention here ofthe fact that this camp is in a county of Wyoming, whose county-seatEvanston, Wyo., can only be reached after 500 miles of travel! Dur-ing the time I was writing up this part of my journal, the mosquitoes32.Psalm 19:1. 84 MORE STAFF DUTIESwere just eating me up alive: my hands were black with them andblood trickled from wrists and temples.But I was determined to letnothing frustrate my efforts and stuck it out without a grunt.Ourfires had burned down without my perceiving it and the enemy tookprompt advantage of the change in the situation.Mr.Gaulieur [sic] very kindly brought me an Indian-rubber cup fullof cold champagne which tasted like nectar and drowned the recol-lection of my sufferings.Mr.Gaulieur [sic], who has a wonderfulfacility in drawing, has devoted his time to making sketches, all ofwhich are extremely good.He is not much of a rider, but is a verypleasant gentleman of extended travel and cultivated mind.Mr.Schurz, the Secretary of the Interior, is a very genial companion,puts on no airs whatever and exerts himself to make everythingrun along smoothly.He is a wonderfully fine linguist and speaks ourlanguage with classic precision.33 He is a very good shot and by hisskill has done much for our table.He rides well, is very wiry andcan stand almost any amount of fatigue.Mr.Mayer is Secy.Schurz s nephew.He has just completed his termof service in the German Landwehr, and is a bright, amiable youngman, an excellent shot with a rifle and a pretty fair rider.Mr.Hanna, Secy.Shurz s private Secretary, is a skilled stenog-rapher, possesses a very good education and has travelled muchin our Western-country, especially since the incumbency of Mr.Schurz.Webb C.Hayes, son of his Excellency the President, possesses allthe attributes of good companionship, with all the best qualities ofmanhood.He is very bright, gentle, good-humored, able to standmuch fatigue and is a pretty good hunter.Ludington and Stantonare two of our best men.They both served with distinction duringthe War of the Rebellion and have since seen a great amount ofhard work on the Frontier, where Stanton especially has becomenoted for gallantry and intelligence in Indian wars.They, with Col.Thornburgh, are maniacs on the subject of fishing.Col.Thornburgh, served during the Rebellion as regimental andBrigade commander, doing good service, and after its close repre-sented his (Tennessee) District in Congress for a number of terms.His health breaking down, he was obliged to seek restoration in thebracing summer climate of the Rocky Mountains.His brother, Major33.Schurz immigrated from Germany. CARL SCHURZ AND YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 85T.T.Thornburgh, 4th Infantry, was killed in action with hostile UteIndians last year.34Major Roberts, General Crook s new Aide de Camp, is as yet un-known to me, but from the General s description, I am certain hewill prove to be a valuable friend.He bears a high reputation forcourage and intelligence and in his intercourse with his comradesis gentle, genial and unaffected.Bainbridge is a thorough soldier, believes in keeping everything inship-shape, and is as pleasant a companion as the most exactingcould demand.Of General Crook, I have spoken elsewhere at length, and so also Ihave of Tom Moore.Mr.Norris, the Superintendent of the Park, whojoined us last evening, we know pretty well already.He impressesme as a good-natured, egotistical enthusiast, warm-hearted and con-siderable ability.Of his pluck and grit I haven t a doubt.Like SilasWegg,35 he occasionally drops into poetry in retailing which he issufficiently liberal.His garrulity is something wonderful.Upon theslightest pretext, he will burst into a conversational torrent, lastingas long as any of his audience have the nerve to remain near him.We have dubbed him Old Faithful from his resemblance to theGeyser.Sky cleared off at sun-set.34
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